“Man, I love this country! Something crazy’s always happening!” My guide was on edge as he weaved the car through the mad, mad traffic of Tirana, on edge for fear of crashing and with pure, reckless joy at the mayhem he was part of it. There are no...
I set out an epic overland journey from London in October, and I’ve been on the road travelling through Europe for the past few months, living out of a back pack and heading vaguely East- towards Turkey and Asia. I covered more miles than I ever imagined...
Foreign and Commonwealth Office Travel Advice for Kosovo: avoid large crowds or demonstrations. Stay away from all political protests. Well, only five minutes into my stay in Kosovo’s capital of Pristina all British Government advice was being...
In 1986 REACTOR NUMBER 4 exploded. Residents were forced out of their homes, and given only hours to collect all they could carry. They believed that they would be home again soon, but almost 3 decades later, the towns and villages of the Chernobyl exclusion zone are...
London to where? Trasnistria? Where the…? Never heard of it I hear you say! Well, that’s because it doesn’t technically exist. I just survived a trip to the breakaway separatists of the Tranistrian Republic, somewhere in the no man’s land...
“More Rakija!”, “More Rakija!” Wild cries rose from the table in the back of the dingy, smoke filled bar hidden deep behind the ageing walls of the Montenegrin town of Kotor. The Old Town Hostel had brought me to the harrowing...
The white gravestones stretch from the edge of Sarajevo’s Old Town to the fortress perched on the summit of the hill. The first few that I pass have the year 1991 engraved upon them, the next ’92, then ’93, ’94 and on and on as I climb higher...
Beautiful yet brutal. That’s Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is a country where Bosnian Muslims live next to Orthodox Serbs, and orthodox Serbs live next to Catholic Croatians. Everyone gets on smashingly, except for when they don’t get on smashingly....
Amongst the lively and crowded streets of central Belgrade, it’s easy to forget that this was once a city at war. The city has moved on since the 1999 NATO bombing campaign hit Serbia, but the ruins of the conflict have been left heaped along the roadsides,...
“Be careful”, said Miran. “Don’t step off the path”. The crazy Bosnian had led us right into the middle of a minefield. “If you go to the right there’s a fifty percent chance of death, and if you do down there to the left,...
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