The Sheep Had Completely Blocked the Road To Lahic. There was no way around them. On one side were steep, jagged cliffs that terrifyingly looked as if they would come violently crashing down upon us at any moment and on the other side was a precipitous drop which...
“This is not the best time to be here”, said the official at the Ministry of Foreign affairs, “but thank you for visiting my country”. I had travelled to Nagorno-Karabakh, a country which doesn’t technically exist. It’s a small, breakaway territory between...
The Old Man of Sheki was staring at me with a mad look in his eyes. He beckoned me over with a frantic gesture as he sat crossed legged on a ragged sheep skin on the floor. The greying, dishevelled Azerbaijani man had a crazy glint in eyes, and something...
The strange mud volcanoes of Azerbaijan are a bizarre natural phenomenon in the desert near Baku. Azerbaijan styles itself as the land of fire. It’s a resource rich country, where oil literally seeps out of the ground and occasionally just doesn’t stop...
“The boat leaves late!” The border guard yelled as I arrived at Azerbaijan’s ferry terminal. “6 hours!” My Caspian Sea ferry cruise was supposed to depart at 11pm. Now it looked like I was spending the night in the harbour. “Watch...
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