“More Rakija!”, “More Rakija!” Wild cries rose from the table in the back of the dingy, smoke filled bar hidden deep behind the ageing walls of the Montenegrin town of Kotor. The Old Town Hostel had brought me to the harrowing...
The white gravestones stretch from the edge of Sarajevo’s Old Town to the fortress perched on the summit of the hill. The first few that I pass have the year 1991 engraved upon them, the next ’92, then ’93, ’94 and on and on as I climb higher...
Beautiful yet brutal. That’s Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is a country where Bosnian Muslims live next to Orthodox Serbs, and orthodox Serbs live next to Catholic Croatians. Everyone gets on smashingly, except for when they don’t get on smashingly....
Amongst the lively and crowded streets of central Belgrade, it’s easy to forget that this was once a city at war. The city has moved on since the 1999 NATO bombing campaign hit Serbia, but the ruins of the conflict have been left heaped along the roadsides,...
“Be careful”, said Miran. “Don’t step off the path”. The crazy Bosnian had led us right into the middle of a minefield. “If you go to the right there’s a fifty percent chance of death, and if you do down there to the left,...
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