The stones clattered furiously over the cliff as I desperately clung onto the narrow rock face and inched ever so precariously along the mountain path. This was supposed to be easy. An easy jaunt to the top of a hill. But no, I found myself on a black graded...
“Man, I love this country! Something crazy’s always happening!” My guide was on edge as he weaved the car through the mad, mad traffic of Tirana, on edge for fear of crashing and with pure, reckless joy at the mayhem he was part of it. There are no...
“More Rakija!”, “More Rakija!” Wild cries rose from the table in the back of the dingy, smoke filled bar hidden deep behind the ageing walls of the Montenegrin town of Kotor. The Old Town Hostel had brought me to the harrowing...
The white gravestones stretch from the edge of Sarajevo’s Old Town to the fortress perched on the summit of the hill. The first few that I pass have the year 1991 engraved upon them, the next ’92, then ’93, ’94 and on and on as I climb higher...
Beautiful yet brutal. That’s Bosnia and Herzegovina. This is a country where Bosnian Muslims live next to Orthodox Serbs, and orthodox Serbs live next to Catholic Croatians. Everyone gets on smashingly, except for when they don’t get on smashingly....
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