A Tale of Bears and Lakes in Shkoder. “Is that a bear?! That’s a bear isn’t it?!” We were driving down the main street of the Albanian town of Shkoder, and all in the car were clambering at the windows for a desperate view of the street...
I was the only tourist in Moldova. Probably. I was visiting Chisinau, the inelegant, yet chaotically transfixing capital of this small state on the edge of Europe and there wasn’t another visitor in sight. That meant that all the abandoned theme parks,...
The stones clattered furiously over the cliff as I desperately clung onto the narrow rock face and inched ever so precariously along the mountain path. This was supposed to be easy. An easy jaunt to the top of a hill. But no, I found myself on a black graded...
Dubrovnik. The walled city. The jewel in the crown of the Croatian coastline. Or so the tourist guides and lonely planet describe the place. It’s nice. But it’s busy. Really f*cking busy. In the heat, the humidity and surrounded by swarms of cruise ship...
“Man, I love this country! Something crazy’s always happening!” My guide was on edge as he weaved the car through the mad, mad traffic of Tirana, on edge for fear of crashing and with pure, reckless joy at the mayhem he was part of it. There are no...
Foreign and Commonwealth Office Travel Advice for Kosovo: avoid large crowds or demonstrations. Stay away from all political protests. Well, only five minutes into my stay in Kosovo’s capital of Pristina all British Government advice was being...
Along the Borders chronicles my multi-year journey along Britain's borders, boundaries and frontiers. Published by Penguin Random House, and available now!
