I travelled to Tskaltubo, a former Soviet spa town, to hear the stories of Georgia’s Abkhazian refugees, who still reside inside ‘abandoned’ sanatoriums intended as temporary homes. “Hope is the last thing to die,” Lasha told me, standing in the...
I travelled into the remote deserts of eastern Jordan in search of a vanishing oasis that once teemed with life. And to learn how conservationists are clawing this wetland back from the engulfing sands. Driving east from Amman, the sun beating down on the dark tarmac,...
Discover the unusual story of Jordan’s ‘panhandle’, a cartographical curiosity in the far eastern desert borderlands between Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. The empty highway led northeast from Azraq. Leaving behind the sparse palms and military...
I travelled deep into Jordan’s eastern deserts in search of Winston’s Hiccup, a cartographical anomaly supposedly drawn by drunken statesmen which defined the Middle East’s modern borders. The road was long. The tarmac was scorching hot. And the...
From ancient mosaic maps to crumbling Byzantine ruins, discover the best things to do in Madaba, Jordan’s surprising Christian city. Located some 30 kilometres south-west of Amman, the Jordanian capital, Madaba is one of the Middle East’s most intriguing...
Along the Borders chronicles my multi-year journey along Britain's borders, boundaries and frontiers. Published by Penguin Random House, and available now!
