From Abbasid souqs and holy Shia shrines to the Iraq Museum and riverfront restaurants; here are the best things to do in Baghdad, Iraq.
“I have seen the greatest of cities that are known for their perfection and refinement, in the lands of Syria and the Greeks and other countries, but I have never seen a city like Baghdad whose roofs are so high, a city which is so round or more noble, the gates of which are wider and the walls better. It is as if the city were cast into a mould and poured out.”
Al-Jahiz, 8th century Iraqi scholar.
When I landed at Baghdad International Airport in August 2024, I had no idea what to expect. It was a sweltering 50 degrees Celsius outside. Once I’d made it through the chaos of Iraq’s ‘Visa on Arrival’ system, I’ll admit I felt some trepidation finding myself on the same highway into the city where Iranian Major General Qasem Soleimani was killed in a US airstrike in 2020.
I grew up watching news reports from the invasion and occupation during the 2000s. Baghdad is a city I’ve always equated with war. But as I strolled through Abassid-era marketplaces and ate Masgouf (grilled fish, and Iraq’s national dish) on the banks of the Tigris, I found a new appreciation for the Iraqi capital, one rooted in the hospitality of its people and the ancientness of its foundations.
“This is a city that has history, cuisine and a modern culture you’ll see everywhere. You have adventure, religious sites, shopping malls, gaming cafes and museums. Baghdad has everything, that’s what I love about it,” said Ali, a young guide from Baghdad who works for the local tour company Bil Weekend. “Keep an open mind, and Iraq is a beautiful destination.”
Amongst bullet-ridden facades, you’ll find stories of protests in Tahrir Square. In historic souks, you’ll meet copper smiths plying the same trade their ancestors did a thousand years ago, and in tea shops and cafes you’ll meet Baghdadis who’ve lived through some of the worst times of the modern era, and yet still smile as they ask where you’re from. From its founding in 762AD by the Abbasid Caliph Al-Mansur to the student-led revolutions in 2019, Baghdad is in a constant ebb and flow, like the tides of the Tigris.
If you’re planning a trip to Iraq, keep reading, as I countdown the best things to do in Baghdad.
Table of Contents
Things to do in Baghdad
1. Explore ancient history at the ‘Looted’ Iraq Museum
For history lovers, the best place to start is the Iraq Museum. Opened in 1926, the museum houses an extensive collection of artefacts from Mesopotamian, Babylonian, Assyrian, and Sumerian civilisations, showcasing Iraq as the ‘Cradle of Civilization‘.
The museum is quite unlike any other I’ve been to, however. First of all, you’ll be checked for weapons on the way in, and on the way out, you’ll be searched to ensure you’re not stealing any of their ancient Cuneiform tablets or Sumerian statues.
They have a right to be worried too. In the aftermath of the 2003 invasion of Iraq, the Iraq Museum was heavily looted by occupying forces. Large numbers of artefacts have yet to be returned, and my guide, Abdulrahim, constantly explained how many of the exhibits were replicas. “Have you been to the British Museum?” he asked me during the tour. “You can find many more Iraqi relics there.”
Still, the Iraq Museum is home to an impressive array of archaeological finds, offering a window into the early civilizations that shaped the Middle Eastern nation, including artefacts from ancient cities like Ur and Nimrud. Many relics are being returned too (slowly), with Al Jazeera reporting the repatriation of 17,000 artefacts in 2021.
2. Pay your respects at The Martyrs’ Memorial (Al-Shaheed Monument)
The Martyrs’ Memorial (Al-Shaheed Monument), with its shimmering blue, Babylonian-inspired exterior, is one of the most recognisable sights in Baghdad. As beautiful as it is, the memorial has a darker history, being built in 1983 to honour fallen Iraqi soldiers who lost their lives during the Iran-Iraq War between 1980–1988.
The monument’s striking design, created by Iraqi architect Ismail Fattah al-Turk, features a large turquoise split dome resting on a circular platform. One-half of the dome symbolically opens, with a central flame and a cascade of water, representing both sorrow and resilience.
This imposing structure is a reminder of Iraq’s turbulent modern history, and the monument has become a tribute to all those who also died in the later conflicts endured by the country, including the 2003 Invasion of Iraq.
3. Stroll down Al Rashid Street
Al-Rashid Street is one of Baghdad’s most historic and culturally significant thoroughfares. Constructed in 1916, during the Ottoman era, it was the first modern street in the city, quickly becoming a hub of commercial and intellectual life. Al-Rashid Street was once the beating heart of Baghdad’s social scene, lined with theatres, cafes, and shops. It attracted writers, artists, and intellectuals, contributing to the city’s reputation as a cultural centre during the early 20th century.
Architecturally, the street showcases a mix of Ottoman and British influences, with elegant arcades and colonial-style buildings. Key landmarks, such as the Al-Zahawi Café, where intellectuals gathered, and the historic Al-Rashid Theatre, are part of its legacy. Despite suffering damage over decades of conflict, the street retains its historic intrigue to this day.
4. Admire traditional crafts at Souq al-Safafeer (The Copper market)
Inside Souq al-Safafeer (an old copper market founded in the 8th century AD), the ding of hammers echoes around ancient streets as Baghdadi local Amir moulds copper bowls into shape. “He is the best copper crafter in the market,” said Ali, from Bil Weekend. “He learned from his father, who learned from his father, and so on.”
The entire market resounds with the noise of copper making, as it has for over a thousand years, and Souq al-Safafeer is one of the best places in Baghdad for a glimpse into one of its last surviving traditional crafts. It is famous for its beautifully crafted copper and brass goods, skilled artisans handcraft trays, pots, and ornamental items, often engraved with intricate designs and Arabic calligraphy.
“Everything is negotiable,” Ali added when I asked how much copper goods cost. “That’s a big part of Iraqi culture. You bargain for everything.”
5. Buy books on Mutanabbi Street
A far cry from the image of a war-torn Iraq, Mutanabbi Street is Baghdad’s intellectual and literary hub. Named after the renowned 10th-century Arab poet Al-Mutanabbi (you’ll see his statue by the Tigris River), this historic street has long been home to booksellers and cafes, attracting writers, poets, and academics.
Established in the 1930s, it became famous for its book market, offering everything from classical literature and religious texts to contemporary political writings. Unfortunately, the street was targeted in a bombing in 2007. It was rebuilt, and years later, it’s busy with visitors browsing books, debating ideas, and sipping tea in its historic cafes, such as the iconic Shabandar Café.
6. Sip tea at Shabandar Café
Shabandar Café, located on Mutanabbi Street in Baghdad, is one of the city’s most historically significant cafes. Established in 1904 the café’s walls are adorned with photographs and memorabilia telling the story of Baghdad’s political past (try to spot the old king if you can).
When I stopped in for a refreshment break on my tour of Old Baghdad, I was met by a haze of Sheesha smoke and the smell of piping hot tea. As daily life continued unabated, I was taken aback by the memorials, placed around Shabandar Cafe by the owner, who lost several family members during the 2007 car bomb attack on Mutanabbi Street.
I was told that it’s now known as the ‘Martyrs’ Cafe’, and that the car that was blown up is on display in the Imperial War Museum in London. Times have changed, and there were families from Kurdistan, Baghdad locals, and groups of tourists all mingling freely in Shabandar Cafe
7. Admire medieval architecture at the Abbasid Palace
The Abbasid Palace, built in the late 12th century during the reign of the Abbasid Caliphate, is one of the few remaining architectural examples from this golden period of Islamic history.
Located near the Tigris River, the palace is believed to have been either an administrative centre or a residential complex for high-ranking officials. Its architectural style, characterised by brickwork, pointed arches, and vaulted ceilings, reflects the sophistication of Abbasid design.
Though much of the original structure has not survived, the existing parts of the palace, including its courtyards and chambers, offer a glimpse into the grandeur of Baghdad during its time as a major intellectual and cultural centre, so many centuries ago.
Read more: Inside Saddam Hussein’s Abandoned Babylonian Palace
8. Take a break at Haji Zbala Juice Shop
Around the corner from Mutanabbi Street is another Baghdad classic. For decades, Haji Zbala Juice Shop has been known for serving refreshing drinks. A popular stop for Baghdadis seeking respite from the city’s heat, they serve fresh pomegranate, orange, and lemon juices, as well as traditional drinks such as tamarind and rosewater lemonade.
The shop’s simple décor hides a fascinating past, which you’ll see reflected in the diverse visitors who have called in here. Look up at the walls, and you’ll photos of Iraqi politicians, Arab sheikhs and even the former king of Iraq, all of whom stopped by for a juice. They used to have a picture of Saddam Hussein on the wall, but no longer.
My guide explained how when the shop was established in the 1900s, it was given the “silly” name Zbala, which means ‘junk’ in Arabic. It was a play on words and traditions, but you’ll find the juice is far from tasting like junk!
9. Visit Mustansiriyah Madrasah, one of the world’s first universities
Mustansiriyah Madrasah, located in Baghdad, is one of the oldest and most significant centres of learning in the Islamic world. Founded in 1227 by the Abbasid Caliph Al-Mustansir, it served as a prestigious institution for higher education during the Abbasid period (one of the first universities of its kind in the world, I was reminded by my guide).
The madrasah offered comprehensive instruction in Islamic law, medicine, mathematics, astronomy, and literature, attracting scholars from across the Middle East. The architecture of the Mustansiriyah Madrasah is a fine example of Abbasid craftsmanship, featuring intricate brickwork, arches, and a large central courtyard.
Its design reflects both educational and religious functions, with spaces for lectures and worship. Despite centuries of wear and the effects of war, the madrasah’s restored structure remains a historic landmark, providing insight into the Islamic Golden Age and the educational heritage of medieval Baghdad.
10. Enter ‘The Green Zone’
If you’re anything like me, then you’ll be intrigued to see the Green Zone, the heavily fortified area that became synonymous with Iraq’s post-2003 political landscape.
Officially known as the International Zone, it was established by coalition forces after the US-led invasion of Iraq in 2003 to serve as a secure enclave for the Iraqi government, foreign embassies, and military headquarters. The Green Zone is still situated in the heart of Baghdad, right along the Tigris River, where it covers an area of approximately 10 square kilometres.
The Green Zone’s high-security measures, including checkpoints and barriers, reflected the broader instability of post-invasion Iraq. Access is still restricted, and it remains a symbol of Iraq’s complex political transition and ongoing security concerns.
In recent years, there have been attempts to open parts of the Green Zone to the public, and you can drive through the area and see all that heavy security for yourself (including the US Embassy, which is the largest embassy in the world!).
Read more: I Visited Pizza Hut and KFC in Baghdad, Iraq. Here’s What Happened.
11. Discover Shia history at Al-Khadimayan Shrine
The Al-Kadhimayn Shrine, located in the Kadhimayn district of Baghdad, is one of the most revered religious sites in Shia Islam. The burial place of Imam Musa al-Kadhim, the seventh Shia Imam, and his grandson, Imam Muhammad al-Jawad, the ninth Imam, the shrine, with its magnificent golden domes and intricate tile work attracts millions of pilgrims each year from across the Shia world.
When I arrived in Baghdad, this was the first place I visited on my first evening in the city. I was amazed at the number of worshippers in the central square, many of whom were visiting as part of the annual ‘Arba’een‘ festival, on their way to holy shrines in Karbala, to the south of Baghdad.
Constructed during the 16th century, the shrine has undergone several expansions and renovations to accommodate so many visitors, with its current form reflecting a blend of Safavid and later architectural styles. Inside, the mausoleums were packed with pilgrims, all jostling to touch the tombs of the holy Imams.
12. Explore Sunni heritage at Abu Hanifa Mosque
The Abu Hanifa Mosque is one of the city’s most important Sunni religious sites. It houses the tomb of Imam Abu Hanifa, the founder of the Hanafi school of Islamic jurisprudence, which is one of the four major Sunni schools of law. Built in the 8th century, the mosque has long been a centre for Sunni scholarship and teaching.
The mosque’s large, domed structure and minaret stand as an architectural landmark in Baghdad. Over the centuries, it’s been renovated and expanded multiple times, reflecting its religious and cultural importance as a centre of Sunni pilgrimage. The complex also includes a theological school, continuing its role as a centre for Islamic learning in Baghdad.
Read more: How Many Countries Are in the Middle East? Everything You Need to Know.
13. Uncover revolutionary stories in Tahrir Square
“This is where the Iraqi Revolution started in 2019,” said Ali, from Bil Weekend, as we walked past colourful murals lining the underpass to Tahrir Square. “Students were asking for more opportunities, and the government started shooting at them.”
Ali relives the protests as we walk through one of Baghdad’s most symbolic landmarks, a place regarded as the heart of political and social activism in Iraq. Located in the eastern part of the city, the square has become a focal point for protests and demonstrations, playing a pivotal role during the 2019 protests, known as the Tishreen Movement, where thousands of Iraqis gathered to demand government reforms, economic improvements, and an end to corruption. Ali knows because he was there, helping protestors and taking footage which he smuggled out of the crowds.
At the centre of the square stands the Monument of Freedom (Nasb al-Hurriya), a powerful piece of public art created by Iraqi sculptor Jawad Saleem in 1961. The monument’s frieze portrays the struggles and hopes of the Iraqi people, with figures symbolising revolution, progress, and liberty. For young Iraqis like Ali, Tahrir Square represents hope but also shows the difficulties it will take to secure their futures.
14. Enjoy panoramic views from Baghdad Tower
Baghdad Tower, formerly known as the Saddam International Tower, is one of the tallest and most recognisable structures in the Iraqi capital. Standing at 205 metres, it was originally built in the early 1990s as a telecommunications tower but has since evolved into a popular attraction due to its panoramic views of Baghdad.
The tower is equipped with an observation deck and a revolving restaurant, offering visitors the chance to dine while enjoying 360-degree views of the city and the surrounding Tigris River.
Though constructed during Saddam Hussein’s regime, the tower today is seen more as a modern symbol of Baghdad’s urban landscape. Its location, near Zawra Park, makes it a convenient stop for those exploring the city’s central attractions.
Read more: How Many Countries in Asia? Everything You Need to Know.
15. Eat Masgouf along the Tigris River
The Tigris River has been central to Baghdad since the city’s founding in 762 CE by the Abbasid Caliphs, and the long riverfront promenade allows visitors to connect with these ancient roots.
Lined with parks, gardens, and cafes, the promenade is a popular gathering place for locals, particularly in the evenings, where they come to stroll and socialise. It also provides access to some of Baghdad’s key landmarks, including the Mutanabbi Street district and several historic mosques.
On my last night in Baghdad, I headed down to the river for a taste of Iraq’s national dish, Masgouf. Malik, a local Baghdadi, explained to me how this classic fish dish – cooked over a roaring fire and served with flatbreads and a delightful mango sauce – has its roots in ancient Sumerian cuisine. I dined at Restaurant Nas, a glorious riverside restaurant specialising in Masgouf.
16. Stand beneath the Victory Arch
The Victory Arch, also known as the Swords of Qadisiyah, is a monumental structure in Baghdad, built in the 1980s to commemorate Iraq’s claimed victory in the Iran-Iraq War.
Designed by Iraqi sculptor Adil Kamil under the direction of Saddam Hussein, the arch features two enormous hands emerging from the ground, each gripping a sword, which cross high above the ground in a dramatic display of power. The hands are even said to be modelled after Saddam Hussein’s own.
The arch stands in Zawra Park, near the former military parade grounds, and became a prominent symbol of Hussein’s regime. The swords themselves are made from weapons taken from dead Iranian soldiers, adding a macabre detail to the monument’s design.
Though controversial, the Victory Arch remains one of Baghdad’s most recognisable landmarks, reflecting the complex legacy of Iraq’s modern history and its militarized past.
17. Uncover Baghdad’s origins at Taq Kasra
Taq Kasra, also known as the Arch of Ctesiphon, is a monumental structure located near the ruins of Ctesiphon, the ancient capital of the Sasanian Empire, just south of Baghdad. Built in the 6th century during the reign of the Sasanian king Khosrow I, the arch is the largest single-span brick vault in the world and a remarkable feat of ancient engineering.
Taq Kasra was once part of a grand palace complex, symbolising the power and wealth of the Sasanian Empire, which was one of the most powerful entities of its time, rivalled only by the Byzantine Empire. The arch, standing at 37 metres high, is one of the few surviving elements of this palace, but sadly, decades of neglect mean the site remains little-visited, and constantly under renovation.
Next to Taq Kasra, you can visit the remains of an old ‘holiday resort’ built by Saddam Hussein for school kids. There’s a big tower here, called the ‘Panorama’, which held a museum and exhibitions about the arch. The inside was looted, but head upstairs, and you’ll have a glorious view of the surrounding landscapes.
Map of the best things to do in Baghdad
Here’s a map of the best things to do in Baghdad, Iraq:
There you have it, the best things to do in Baghdad. Where will your Iraqi adventure take you?
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