“This is not the best time to be here”, said the official at the Ministry of Foreign affairs, “but thank you for visiting my country”. I had travelled to Nagorno-Karabakh, a country which doesn’t technically exist. It’s a small, breakaway territory between...
Ani, the neglected ruins of an Armenian Kingdom, are crumbling in a distant province of Turkey. The watchtowers stare back menacingly from across the steep ravine. I can’t see past the darkened windows of the steel structures, but I wonder if the...
War Torn But Still Beautiful, These are the photos from Nagorno-Karabakh. I visited Nagorno-Karabakh in April 2016. Immediately before my trip, violence had flared up along the border with Azerbaijan, threatening to reignite a bitter conflict which has never...
Akdamar Island lies in the middle of Lake Van. On the island I found one of the few remaining Armenian churches left in Turkey, and a dark reminder of the events that violently shaped the landscape of a modern nation, in a strangely spectacular setting. It might...
Moving, and emotional. This is my personal experience of marching with the Armenians on Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day. Each year, on 24 April, the people of Yerevan make their way stoically to the top of the Tsitsernakaberd hill outside of the city, to...
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