So, you want to travel to a country which doesn’t exist? A barely recognised, war torn state somewhere on the black sea? Well then you are reading the right article! Here’s how to travel to the Breakaway Republic of Abkhazia!
The breakaway Republic of Abkhazia is a little known, self declared nation on the sub tropical shores of the Black Sea! Russia is to the north and Georgia to the east. The Abkhazians have been fighting for their independence from their Georgian neighbours ever since the Soviet Union collapsed.
There’s beautiful, palm fringed boulevards in the capital of Sukhumi, rustic old Soviet buildings to explore, abandoned train stations, incredible lakes, deep caves and friendly people- if you can speak a few words of Russian to them that is. It’s off the beaten track. International isolation tends to do that to a place. But it’s far from impossible to get to.
And Stalin himself used to holiday here, so it might just be worth the effort!
I travelled to Abkhazia, from Georgia in 2016. This article will explain how you too can do the same.
So without further ado, here’s how to travel to the Breakaway Republic of Abkhazia!
Where Even Is This Breakaway Republic Of Abkhazia??!
Abkhazia is on the Black Sea. It’s de facto independent, but most of the world recognises it as part of Georgia. Except the Russians, and a few small Pacific Islands, who recognise it as independent. It’s between Georgia and Russia, so that means that you either have to travel in from Georgia, or from Russia. And there won’t be any flying, as the Georgians have vowed to shoot down any aircraft unlawfully entering their territory…
Step 1] Secure An Entrance Letter
First up you need to secure the all important entrance letter. This allows you to cross the border. This is not, however, a visa. Once in Abkhazia, you have to exchange your entrance letter for an official visa in Sukhumi. More on that shortly.
Getting an entrance letter is fairly easy at the moment. You fill in the application form, which can be downloaded HERE and email it off to visa@mfaapsny.org
You need to include a scanned copy of your passport. I sent a photo of the passport, this was acceptable. Specify your date of entry and your entrance point. From Georgia, your entrance point will be Inguri. You should get an automated reply informing you that within 5 working days you will receive the entrance letter. I received mine exactly 5 working days after applying! The system works!
The entrance letter looks exactly like this:
Print off a minimum of 2 copies, if not more, as the border guards will keep a copy and you will need one to get your visa later. Importantly, it has to be a paper copy, screenshots just won’t do here!
Step 2] Get to Zugdiddi
Once your entrance letter is secure and you’ve printed off multiple copies- the more the merrier!- then it’s time to head to Zugdidi. This is the last Georgian city before the border. There are night trains from Tbilisi, or marshrutka’s from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Batumi, Mestia…
There’s not much going on in Zugdidi. There’s a tourist information, and a few guesthouses if you spend the night there.
Step 3] Get to the Inguri Border Crossing
The mighty River Ingur separates Georgia proper from its breakaway territory of Abkhazia. From Zugdidi, the crossing point is about 20 kilometres away. A taxi will cost 10 Georgian Lari. There are also marshrutka’s heading there which cost 2 Lari per person. They leave when full but not from the Train/Bus Station where you will probably arrive at.
If you are being cheap and want to take the marshrutka option, then walk into town and by the bridge- and the Sunday Market labelled on the map below- you should be able to find one eventually. If not stroll up the road which goes parallel to the river, without crossing it, and you can try and hail one down as this is the road they all take out of the city. Incidentally this is also where minibuses to Mestia arrive and depart from if you want another adventure after Abkhazia!
**** The borders are open from 8am until 7pm ****
Step 4] Check in with the Georgian Police
Once you’ve made it to the border, there’s a police building on the left hand side facing the bridge. The police here will scan your passport and will want to see your entrance letter to Abkhazia before they let you across. They might ask you a few questions, but it’s pretty relaxed. They just want to know that you won’t get arrested for not having the right documents, and that you aren’t working there at all. They won’t stamp you out, as technically, you aren’t even leaving their country.
Step 5] Cross the Bridge!
Once you’ve talked to the police, it’s time to cross the bridge that spans the mighty Inguri River and separates Georgia from Abkhazia. It’s supposedly a pedestrian only bridge, although quite a few cars did pass over when I walked it. It’s about a 200 metre walk from border post to border post.
If you’re feeling particularly lazy then you can always take the horse and cart service which runs from one side to the other.
There’s some great views from the bridge, although the bridge itself looks like it was built too many years ago. It’s rather dilapidated. Just before the bridge itself you will pass some armed Georgian soldiers and a strange and slightly threatening revolver statue which points towards Abkhazia but has had the muzzle tied in a knot…
Step 6] Get Through the Abkhazian Border!
At the end of the bridge, there’s a look outpost and a small office. Go to the window and hand over your passport and entrance letter. The guard will then make a few phone calls. I had to wait at least half an hour here before I could advance, while locals were just walking through all carefree and such like.
After the phone calls have been made, you walk up through the gates and barbed wire fencing towards the actual passport inspection point. Yes, there’s more checks. Here they thoroughly check your passport and entrance letter, and again make more phone calls. Probably to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. If everything is in order, they keep one copy of the letter and then send you on your way. It’s rather time consuming, but I found there was no hassle or even any questioning. Just a lot of phone calls being made.
Step 7] Get to Sukhumi
So you made it across the border, and you’re actually in Abkhazia! Now what?
Most people will need to head to Sukhumi, the sea side capital. From the border you might get really lucky and find a direct minibus, but don’t count on it. Find a minibus to the town of Gal, about half an hour down the road. This will cost 100 Roubles per person.
Gal looks just like this in Cyrillic writing, the top bit in red. Sukhumi is the bottom right bit:
In Gal, the minibus stops at a large open square, parking lot type thing. This is the end of the line and also where minibuses to Sukhumi depart from. These leave every few hours. I caught one at 3pm. This might even have been the last of the day. The price will be 300 Roubles per person and the journey time is around 2 hours.
Step 8] Get Your Visa!
Once in Abkhazia you have three working days to collect your visa. Even if you only want a day trip, you’ll need a visa. This you collect from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. This is located at 33 Sakharov Street, near to the giant burned out government building. The ministry looks like this:
The cost for up to 10 days in the breakaway nation is USD 10. This has to be paid for at a bank, separate to the ministry, on Lakoba Street, five minutes walk away. You can pay in Roubles or Dollars. Hint: Walk past the National Bank of Abkhazia, unfortunately, this isn’t the right bank! It looks a little like this:
I’ve put directions from one to the other on the map below for you:
I paid for mine before I went to the ministry, as there was a big ass quee on Monday morning. The bank will know what to do, even if you don’t speak Russian, just keep saying Visa and wave some money around. At least a hundred people- mostly from Central Asia I found out after waiting so long with them- were trying to get work visas. Go in the afternoon, when it’s empty, as the actual process only takes about five minutes once you’ve paid.
You’ll get a Visa, which won’t be stuck into your passport, but be careful not to lose this vital piece of documentation as you can’t leave without it!
Step 9: Returning to Georgia!
It’s best to leave early to catch a bus back to Gal, then onto the border. I got to the bus station in Sukhumi around 10 am and there was one leaving around midday. Although the schedule was lax.
Sukhumi bus station is located next to the old train station. A taxi from the centre will cost around 150 Roubles depending on your haggling skills.
From there, it was another short ride to the border. The crossing back was easier than entering. No questions, just a quick look at the passport and the visa, and away I went. On the other side, I checked in with the police, the only questions they asked were about work. It’s illegal to engage in economic activity with Abkhazia, although I guess simply spending money there doesn’t count… I said no, of course I hadn’t been employed in Abkhazia. Then away I went, on a marshrutka to Zugdidi, to find another marshrutka to Mestia. That’s a whole other story. There are also minibuses straight from the border to Tbilisi if you don’t fancy hanging around!
And that’s it! That’s precisely how to travel to Abkhazia!
Travel Tips!
Time Zone: Abkhazia runs one hour behind Georgian time. This can mean waiting at the border if you arrive too early, or getting stuck when leaving if you exit too late!
Money: Abkhazia uses the Russian Rouble. It’s important to get some of these before hand, as there are few ATM’s in the country. I couldn’t find any money changers on the border either, and few in Sukhumi. Getting Roubles in Georgia shouldn’t be too strenuous a task.
Language: Abkhaz is the national language, but everyone speaks Russian. Not English. A few restaurants on the Sukhumi boulevard have picture menus, but it’s best to bring a Russian phrasebook. It helped me out immensely!
Dangers: Abkhazia seemed perfectly safe when I visited, but I read plenty of reports urging people to cross the borders early to avoid being stuck in bandit country. It’s not recommended by most Western governments to visit the region at all, there’s no embassy’s or consular help unless you’re Russian or Venezuelan and your average travel insurance probably won’t cover you here.
In addition, despite mine and many other traveller’s care free trips, it is a volatile region. Anything could happen. Just look at the war in 2008. Most recently, a few weeks after I visited, a Georgian man was shot dead on the border in very hazy circumstances. Travellers are unlikely to be caught up in anything, but just be careful, as with anywhere in the world these days, anything could happen!
Travel From Russia: I have no experience of this, but I met a few travellers in Abkhazia who had made the journey from Sochi. The border crossing was quite easy I heard, however you do need a double entry Russian visa, as you can’t exit to Georgia if entering from Russia. And vice versa.
If you have any updates, please comment below!
Richard Collett
Abkhazia is Georgia! recognized by 99 % of the world countries..Abkhazia is just russian dream! 😉
“The Abkhazians have been fighting for their independence from their not so friendly Georgian neighbours ever since the Soviet Union collapsed.” – for god’s sake, what??? try to be more accurate next time. ethnic cleansing and massacres of Georgians has been officially recognized by the OSCE and 250 K Georgian civilians became IDPs. And now you’re sitting in the damned cafe with Russian dictionary in the “independent” region.
Whenever I hear about travellers entering Abkhazia, they usually enter from Russia via Sochi. This is the first time that I have ever read of someone who successfully entered from Georgia. Thought that was not possible until now!
Yes not too many people seem to realise that entering from Georgia is an option, and a lot easier than having to sort out a Russian double entry visa!
Abkhazia is closed on sundays – no joke!
My girlfriend and I wanted to travel to Abkhazia today, well informed, because we read your blog (thanks btw :)). After an hour of waiting at the second passport-&-entry-letter-check they told us we couldn’t pass and should come back tomorrow. Obviously it was because it is Sunday. 😀 we decided to go to the Black Sea close to Poti instead.
Entering from Russia makes you unlawful visitor for Georgian government, which means you brake law about occupied territories. If you enter from Russian federation you’ll never visit Georgia or you’ll be arrested as a criminal.
Hi, і tһink that i saw you viѕіted my web site thuѕ i came to “return the favor”.I am
аttempting tо find things to enhance my website!I suppose its
ok to use a few of your ideas!!
We will try to enter Abkhazia next week through Georgia. We just received the letters. Any idea how much a taxi costs from Sukhumi to border on the way back? Don’t want risk standing for a closed border in the evening.
Hi Jakob, I’m sorry but I’m not too sure how much a taxi the whole way would cost, I know the minibus was cheap enough so it shouldn’t be too expensive! Richard
Imagine you have found Homeless men in street and let him live in your house and after he gets stronger kicks you out of your room, locks the door and makes another entrance to his dwelling and declares this room as his own home. Rewrites history as if he was fighting for independence for years – that’s the story. There would have never been war or conflict zone if Russia was not involved. Even now they are dependent on Russia, de Facto independence is illusion made no idea for who. It’s good you ve visited Georgia’s this beautiful region
Russian devils shout be kicked out of the illegally occpied territory.
For occupying parts of Georgia alone, one ought not to enter from Russia under no circumstances. Besides, it was already pointed out, entering from Russia is illegal according to Georgian laws. That may lead in being arrested once you visit Georgia in the future.
I’m curious also to visit Sukhumi. Haven’t been there since 1989. At that time was USSR😃 Nostalgic feelings🙄
Oh wow, a long time back. Before all the conflict! It must have been a completely different place.
hmmm, nice post
love it
Thankyou
Thankyou for sharing.
Nice post.
keep it up
Hello Richard! Nice post, thanks for your help. Do you know if there are any timetables for the buses? Also, I have read in other blogs that it is possible to enter Abkhazia via Georgia and exit via Russia but not the other way round. I am going to do that in June for the World Cup. To avoid the stupid air fares to Sochi, I got a very cheap flight to Georgia. So I will cross all Abkhazia. I already have Abkhazia and Russia visas. I will inform better in Russian embassy to see if should be any problems.
Hi there,
When I visited there was a loose timetable available at the Sukhumi bus station, but the buses didn’t really leave on time.
It was possible to leave to Russia if you have the right documents but beware that you wouldn’t be allowed back into Georgia unless you then went back into Abkhazia and returned, as you would never have been granted an exit stamp.
Richard
Ok, so how did it go. things change everyday. Did you get there? thanks 🙂
Hello Richard, Cool tips – helping me out a lot with my upcoming trip at the end of the month, thanks! Are you aware of any changes to this? Visa office for example – I read somewhere this had changed?
I’ve also read of some awful queues at the border since November – any ideas?
Final question – Are we save to pick any hotel (with good reviews) in Abkhazia and also should we ask them to arrange our (daily) taxis. Will the taxi drivers have an issue with us? Check my website out and you will see what I mean!
Thanks – and great website by the way, can’t wait for the Georgian Mini buses – if they are anything like the Romanian ones we will be in for a treat! haha
Thanks James.
Hey man it’s a bit of an adventure going to Abkhazia so things are always changing!
Yeah the hotels online will be a safe bet, taxis are cheap so just make sure you arrange prices in advance, the real difficulty is language if you dont speak Russian as no one speaks English. I found it useful having a translate app here for the restaurants and the hotel.
Not sure about the quees at the border, I had to wait ages anyway as they had to call Sukhumi before I was allowed across…
Hey thanks a lot for the information! Was really helpful. One update: i just got my visa and you can just pay there with a credit card. No more bank!
Thanks for the update! How was your trip?
Thanks so much for the inspiration Richard! I’ve planned most of my Georgia trip now. Only thing that needs doing is getting the Abkhazia visa. I tried calling their consular service but no answer and nothing from their emails either! Just taking a shot in the dark here and wondering if you happen to remember how it works
The visa types are listed here: http://mfaapsny.org/en/consular-service/consular/
It says an ordinary tourist visa (valid for a month) is 350 rub.
Does this mean that if I enter my dates as 1 July to 31 July on my visa application, I would be able to be flexible and enter/exit any times within that period? I’ll only be there a few days but I’d rather not commit to exact dates if that’s possible. No worries if you have no idea though!
Hey I believe that the dates on the entry letter were the dates you had to enter the country, but when I visited you then had to go the ministry of foreign affairs in person to then claim your visa, which then started from the date they gave it to you if that makes sense! But this was only single entry, you would need to enquire about a multiple entry in person
Hi Richard, you’re fantastic traveller – thank’s a lot! I just come back few days ago from Georgia with my camp mobil. – My way was Czech – Slovakia – Hungary – Romania – Bulgaria – Turkey – Georgia – than Northern Ossetia, capital: Vladikavkas – after this I went to Inguschetia and Chechnia, capital Grosny – this was a fantastic trip, all together 13000 km with my camper.- I also wanted to go to Abkhasia, but it was too much for me – I was little bit tired. But in the near future I’ll go for sure – from Georgia to Abkhasia, than to Adler – Sochi – Crimea via the new PUTIN-Bridge, which is 19 km length. Than I’ll go back from Crimea and via Baltic States home to Czech.- After visiting Crimea it’s not a good idea to go to Ukraina – this can be very dangerous when the Ukrainian officials find out that you visited the Crimea – this is illegal for them.
Where are you going next?
Lovely regards and good luck at all your ways – you have the same antenna like me!
Great article! I will be going to Sokhumi in September. I haven’t booked a hotel yet. Is there a particular area that is pedestrian friendly that you can recommend? We only have one night in Sokhumi between the overnight train to and from Tbilisi. I haven’t been able to find much online on best areas to stay in Sokhumi. Hoping you can help. Thanks!
Hi Michelle,
Sukhumi is quite small, I’d recommend staying within walking distance of the main central area, the boulevard!
Hi Richard,
Planning to visit Abkhazia in October ’18. Just a question. Is there any way I can keep the sticker visa of Abkhazia with me as a souvenir or are they going to confiscate it at the border of Abkhazia/Georgia?
Hi, I managed to keep mine, but just don’t tell them you have one or they may confiscate it! Hide it away somewhere 🙂
BHASKAR already asked it, but I ask it once more, if it’s not a problem. How could you keep the visa (itself)? They didn’t ask at the border?
Why don’t you want to stick that visa into your passport?
Why are you trying to separate Abkhazia from Georgia?
What we did that damaged you?
Why are you trying to Collapse my Country?
Now I can say Fuck EU! and Fuck Russia!
Greetings from Georgia❤️😑
Hey mate, sorry if you are angry, I’m not trying to separate anyone, I absolutely love Georgia. I’m just saying things from a travel perspective, because the fact is, you need a separate visa to visit Abkhazia, I’m not trying to be political.
Hi Richard,
Thanks a lot for your useful info. I have a plan to go Abkhazia via Georgia, then Russia and after visiting Russia, come back to Georgia via Kazbegi border, all by my own car.
Now question is, when we go out of Abkhazia to Russia, not come back to Georgia, maybe the government of Georgia considers we went out of Georgia illegally?
I will be pleased if you or anyone answer me.
Soroosh
Hey Soroosh!
I’m not sure that’s a good idea! If you leave Abkhazia via the Russian border you will have illegally left Georgia, so you will have troubles trying to re-enter again at another border crossing I imagine. You would be better travelling back to Georgia from Abkhazia, then entering Russia, even though it’s not ideal!!
Hi, Richard, this is Toni. I want to visit Abchasia with my motor home – what do you think? Is this possible or not? I asked and nobody can tell me something about this. – The Abchasie Visa section wrote to me I must look at the customs website – but all this is in Russian language, I canÄt understand this.
So, doe you know if I can go from Sochi with my own camper to Suchumi?
Thanks, Toni.
Entry to Abkhazia from Georgia currently IMPOSSIBLE (July 2019) – we applied for an invitation letter and the application was rejected by an automated reply. Computer says no (Good day! We inform You that the crossing of the state border through the cheсkpoint “Ingur” is temporarily impossible. Sincerely,CD MFA RA). Some sources say it is due to tensions with Russia. Which makes sense.
Step 9: Returning to Georgia!
Sukhumi bus station is located next to the old train station. A taxi from the centre will cost around 150 Roubles depending on your haggling skills.
I do not understand that well. Did the dude arrive in Step7/8 directly in the centru, near the ministry? Why is the way between the ministry and the bus station not descibed in steps 7/8?
Hey mate, sorry if you are angry, I’m not trying to separate anyone, I absolutely love Georgia. I’m just saying things from a travel perspective, because the fact is, you need a separate visa to visit Abkhazia, I’m not trying to be political.