“I am not Turkish. I am Kurdish”. This was the hundredth time I’d been vigorously told that this day. This was Van, in the Turkish province of Eastern Anatolia, or as I was told, the Kurdish lands. Van is a sprawling metropolis. It’s the...
I went in search of the town of Batman during my travels in Turkey, because you know, the name. “Don’t go to Batman!” My guest house owner in Cappadocia was telling me. “There’s a war going on!” This was the same advice I heard...
This Survival Guide will explain how to travel from Cappadocia to Mount Nemrut by bus! Cappadocia is one of the most surreal, stunning and visited parts of Turkey. The landscapes and cave cities are unique, and worth the particularly long effort it can take to travel...
Akdamar Island lies in the middle of Lake Van. On the island I found one of the few remaining Armenian churches left in Turkey, and a dark reminder of the events that violently shaped the landscape of a modern nation, in a strangely spectacular setting. It might...
In search of giant heads. My Mount Nemrut travel expedition. I had travelled deep into central Turkey in search of the fabled, legendary giant heads of Nemrut Dagi- Mount Nemrut. Mount Nemrut is far from anything. I had travelled to the small, provincial town of...
I travelled to the ancient town of Hasankeyf in southern Turkey, an ancient Mesopotamian settlement in the cradle of civilization that may soon be completely flooded. “Hasankeyf is old”, Arjan tells me over a cup of steaming hot Chai on the banks of the...
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