In the mountains of Chiapas, Mexico, the Zapatista Army of National Liberation has waged a guerilla war against the Mexican state since 1994. I journeyed to San Cristobal de las Casas in search of the elusive Zapatista movement. Here’s how I visited the Zapatista...
Merida is the largest city in the Mexican state of Yucatán, a former Maya stronghold turned colonial settlement that’s long been the political and economic centre of southern Mexico. Compared to its nearby coastal neighbour of Cancun, Merida sees just a fraction of...
On a good day, from the top of the ruins of Ek Balam, you can see El Castillo, the central temple of Chichen Itza rising above the trees in the distance. It’s just 50 kilometres away, across dense swathes of jungle, but compared to the restored and well-known temples...
It was all yellow. The city, it was completely yellow. This was Izamel, a Spanish colonial town built on top of an ancient Mayan settlement that had been conquered and colonised in the 16th century by the Conquistadors on their way through the Yucatan, in what is now...
When I enter the house of Sergio Castro in San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas, Mexico, a young child is having his burns treated in the large, open-air courtyard by a man in a tattered, checked shirt and jeans, who has a white bandana wrapped over his head. The...
Ahh, Mexico. The promised land of tacos, cold corona and endlessly colourful towns and cities. I’ve been exploring southern Mexico for the past few weeks, enjoying the diversity, the colonial Spanish architecture and the indigenous traditions and history, and before I...
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