Discover the complex history of Amman, as I embark on a foodie tour of the Jordanian capital with Omar from 3J Expeditions.
Welcome to Amman, Jordan, a city where history, identity, politics and cuisine intertwine like no other city I’ve visited in the world.
I recently returned from a two-week trip around this Middle Eastern nation, a trip which began in Amman with a culinary tour that involved as much politics as it did falafel, hummus and muttabal.
In my first post from this Jordanian expedition, I bring you the story of Omar, founder of local tour company 3J Expeditions. He introduced me to the local Jordanian specialities, and to the complex questions of identity and politics prevalent in the capital.
Keep reading, to find out more.
And in other news, I’ve just launched my YouTube Channel! Watch my first video, from Amman, for more info about the city’s diverse culinary scene!
Omar’s Story: A Stateless Life
“From 2017 until 2023, I was stateless,” Omar explained as we sat down for Kerak tea in the 12:12 coffee shop on Rainbow Street. “I did not have any identity. I was technically illegal here and illegal everywhere. There was no inch of land on Earth that I could visit without having to be put in front of a court.”
Omar’s background is a stark reflection of the Middle East’s complex geopolitics. His Palestinian family fled to Jordan in 1948. He was born in Saudi Arabia, and although he holds an Egyptian passport, he can’t return there, and effectively remains stateless to this day. For years, he’s had little legal identity, unable to travel, and has made Amman his home.
His story mirrors the experiences of millions of displaced Palestinians who can never return to their homeland, and instead, are forced into a life in perpetual limbo.
Despite his struggles, Omar has found a way to channel his love for history, food, and storytelling into his work, helping visitors understand Amman through his unique tours.
Read more: Discovering Stories of Exile on a Syrian Food Tour in Istanbul
Food as History
Our next stop was a small eatery a short walk from Rainbow Street known simply as The Arabic Restaurant. Inside, we watched falafel being fried to perfection, as chickpeas were mashed into hummus, and pickled vegetables chopped by a humble team of chefs.
Jordanian cuisine, much like the rest of the Levant, has a delightful foundation of chickpeas and olive oil, perfect for vegetarians.
Falafel itself is more than just food – it’s a symbol of cultural ownership – as Omar passionately explained: “The UNESCO food chart declared that falafel is Jordanian, Syrian, Egyptian. We have our biggest competitor, the Israelis, claiming it’s theirs. It cannot be theirs based on UNESCO and based on common sense because falafel existed before the state of the occupation.”
Next, we tried mutabbal, a smoky aubergine dip, alongside a Jerusalem-style hummus blended with fava beans for extra depth. Each dish carried a history, a migration story, a piece of someone’s past, but what struck me most was the fact that in Amman, even the food is politicised.
A City of Refugees
Amman has been shaped by successive waves of migration, making it a city of diverse influences. Palestinians, Iraqis, Syrians, Circassians, and Chechens have all settled here, their presence evident in the markets, businesses and neighbourhoods across the city.
One of the more unexpected encounters was with Mustafa, a young Chechen-Jordanian whose family arrived after the Second World War, joining an already multicultural population that arrived during the Ottoman era. He directed us towards Chechen communities in eastern Jordan, a further reflection of how migration has continually reshaped the country.
Omar explained: “Jordan is a melting pot of everything. It started with the Circassians and Chechens who came after the Russian war. Then came the Armenians after World War I, then the Palestinians in 1948, then the Iraqis after the American occupation, and then the Syrians. All of these people make up modern Jordan.”
The Markets and Ancient Ruins of Amman
Amman’s downtown souks are chaotic. Vendors sell everything from spices and zaatar to neon-pink pickled cauliflower and preserved aubergines stuffed with walnuts and chilli. Nearby, 2,000-year-old Roman ruins sit largely ignored by passersby—a reminder of the city’s layered past.
“Amman has been inhabited since before the Greeks, before the Romans,” said Omar as we pushed our way through a market. “From the days of the Neolithic period. But modern-day Amman is a completely different story.”
One of the most famous spots in Amman is Hashem Restaurant, renowned for its falafel. While the food is fantastic, Omar revealed its lesser-known backstory: “Hashem started in 1911 in Palestine and expanded here. It became important in Jordan because of how humble it started. But the real reason it’s so famous? Tour guides were paid five dinars for every tourist they brought in. That’s how it became ‘the place to go’ for foreigners.”
Tourism’s Downward Spiral in Jordan
Since the escalation of violence in Gaza in October 2023, Jordan’s tourism industry has suffered immensely. Omar shared how, before the war, he led three tours a day—now, he’s lucky to get five a month. The problem isn’t actual danger in Jordan, but the global perception that the Middle East is unsafe for travellers.
“More than 90% of tourists cancelled their flights,” he told us, of the sharp downturn after the conflict in Gaza escalated in 2023. “Understandably, people see war and they think the whole region is dangerous. But it’s not fair. Jordan is safer than London, Berlin, or Paris. And yet, the mainstream media continues to scare people away.”
Ironically, Amman remains one of the safest capitals in the region. Tourism is a lifeline for the local economy, and visiting Jordan directly supports displaced Palestinian communities. Yet, fear continues to keep many travellers away, despite the city’s rich history, welcoming people, and deep culinary traditions.
Read more: How Many Countries Are in the Middle East? Everything You Need to Know.
Jadal: A Cultural Hub in Amman
Our final stop was Jadal, a cultural centre promoting dialogue, learning and creativity. Inside, visitors can play instruments, or participate in language exchange programs (Omar is an Arabic teacher here). They also run a sustainable gardening initiative, teaching refugees how to cultivate crops in Jordan’s harsh, dry climate.
“We need a place for cultural dialogue. People here don’t always have the chance to speak openly,” said Omar, describing it as a rare space for open discussion in a society where certain topics remain taboo. “Jadal aims to break these barriers—to give people a space where they can think, talk, and challenge ideas.”
Places like Jadal are rare but essential—they foster conversation, challenge taboos, and encourage intellectual growth. In a society where some topics remain off-limits, spaces like this provide a necessary platform for open discussion.
As I discovered, Amman is more than its ancient ruins and well-trodden tourist sites. It is a city built by displaced peoples, shaped by migration, and fuelled by its resilience (and by its falafel!). While political instability has cast a shadow over the region, Jordan remains a place of enduring warmth and hospitality.
If you’ve ever considered visiting, don’t let the headlines deter you. Amman offers an experience that goes beyond sightseeing—it’s an immersion into the very history and identity of the Middle East. And if you do make the trip, be sure to join Omar’s tour. As he put it, “You cannot find these stories on the internet. You have to come here, you have to see, you have to listen.”
You can join Omar’s tours through 3J Expeditions. And please, I’d love it if you could subscribe to my new YouTube Channel. I’ll be releasing videos weekly (sometimes more!).
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