I travelled to Tskaltubo, a former Soviet spa town, to hear the stories of Georgia’s Abkhazian refugees, who still reside inside ‘abandoned’ sanatoriums intended as temporary homes. “Hope is the last thing to die,” Lasha told me, standing in the...
“Care! Radiation!” The sign warned that I was entering the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone. There was no turning back now. My documents were checked, and the armed guards waved us across the security line, straight into the fallout area. The Chernobyl disaster...
I was the only tourist in Moldova. Probably. I was visiting Chisinau, the inelegant, yet chaotically transfixing capital of this small state on the edge of Europe and there wasn’t another visitor in sight. That meant that all the abandoned theme parks,...
I can’t think of a great many better places to spend a few relaxing days on holiday than the heavily armed breakaway Republic of Transnistria. This is a country which doesn’t, technically, even exist. This unrecognised recognised nation is lost...
I had made it to the top of the steps, and in front of me stood a monumental Soviet Soldier, a victory flag firmly planted into the column he proudly paraded upon, and a machine gun slung behind his back. I had already seen the statue from the city below, but up close...
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