If I were to ask you where the world’s largest wine collection is stored, I’d be very surprised if your first answer was ‘Moldova’. But on the outskirts of Chisinau, buried deep beneath fields that have nurtured vines for millennia, you’ll find as many as 2 million...
Chisinau, the unsung capital of Moldova, is a country I’ve been itching to return to after I first made this guide way back in 2015. With budget flights now connecting Chisinau to London, I finally had the opportunity to return in March 2026. Much has changed in the...
When I rode the Chisinau to Bucharest sleeper train in March 2026, the journey took around 14 hours, covering 600 kilometres as I travelled on one of the last Soviet-style trains still crossing the European Union’s frontier. The wagons were seriously retro, border...
Is Moldova a country? When did Moldova declare independence from the Soviet Union? Is Transnistria a sovereign nation? Here’s everything you need to know about Moldova, one of the least visited countries in Europe. Located between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova is...
Is Transnistria a country? What’s it like to visit Transnistria? Where even is Transnistria? In this article, we answer all your burning questions about this little-known Breakaway Territory between Ukraine and Moldova. Navigating the complex geopolitics of...
Along the Borders chronicles my multi-year journey along Britain's borders, boundaries and frontiers. Published by Penguin Random House, and available now!